Sewing the Seams

The final cut with lining, pattern piece and fabric secured together.

Matching the checks was only possible at certain sections of some seams.  

I experimented with pad stitching in small shoulder pad-like pieces of buckram at the shoulders to give light support.

No one wants flat boucle, so wrap and pin a face washer to a sleeve roll.  Use a light touch and finger pressing.

The Muslin, the Cutting and the Quilting

FOUR muslins later, it's all good.  According to the packet's size guide I'm a size 16.  It was absolutely swimming on me.  Size 14 was too large so I sewed up a 12 and the size was perfect.  The 4th muslin was necessary to adjust fitting to my shape.  Bad armhole fitting due to me being tired of muslin fitting.

The boucle was rough-cut first to accommodate future shrinkage then fused with Textureweft right up to the cutting line.  It will add bulk in the seam allowance but worth it to prevent unraveling.   The silk lining is rough cut also.  

Then they were loosely basted together to hold steady for quilting.  Quite loose in case the quilting stitches draw the silk in, causing shrinking. 

Now the quilting process.  See that puckering?  I will not iron that flat like the last jacket because I now see it as being pretty and it brings a kind of plushness to its feel.

And the final cut after quilting:

French Style Jacket Number Two

I found some boucle that was a good colour, but its accent threads were a little drab.  So I bought some "donor" fabric that contained nicer accent threads.  After stripping them from the brown fabric and weaving them into the green fabric, it's exactly what I wanted.

...then ...

+

=

Now that the thread swapping is finished, I bought Vogue pattern V7975 and cut the muslin from an old sheet.

Trim added and finished dress.

Trim attached.  FINISHED.

Dress shortened and seams let out

New project - upcycling a 20 year old dress

Too tight and too boring.  So I will release some seams and shorten it, Then add embellishment (Chanel's s/s 2009 is my inspiration) and some type of sleeve.  Luckily, top of the armhold sits right on the shoulder point.  That will make the sleeve easy to fit.