Sewing the Seams

The final cut with lining, pattern piece and fabric secured together.

Matching the checks was only possible at certain sections of some seams.  

I experimented with pad stitching in small shoulder pad-like pieces of buckram at the shoulders to give light support.

No one wants flat boucle, so wrap and pin a face washer to a sleeve roll.  Use a light touch and finger pressing.

The Muslin, the Cutting and the Quilting

FOUR muslins later, it's all good.  According to the packet's size guide I'm a size 16.  It was absolutely swimming on me.  Size 14 was too large so I sewed up a 12 and the size was perfect.  The 4th muslin was necessary to adjust fitting to my shape.  Bad armhole fitting due to me being tired of muslin fitting.

The boucle was rough-cut first to accommodate future shrinkage then fused with Textureweft right up to the cutting line.  It will add bulk in the seam allowance but worth it to prevent unraveling.   The silk lining is rough cut also.  

Then they were loosely basted together to hold steady for quilting.  Quite loose in case the quilting stitches draw the silk in, causing shrinking. 

Now the quilting process.  See that puckering?  I will not iron that flat like the last jacket because I now see it as being pretty and it brings a kind of plushness to its feel.

And the final cut after quilting: